LOCALadk Magazine

46 Winter 2017 LOCALadk Magazine LOCALadk Coffee time, for some, is the best part of the day. Aroma, texture, and taste are all part of the ritual of enjoying a fresh cup of coffee. We spent some time with two local coffee lovers who have turned their passion into new businesses. Topo Coffee, based in Saranac Lake, is owned by Jen John James; Upper Hudson Coffee, in North Creek, is owned by Jim Williams. After spend- ing time with both roasters and seeing just how the process of roasting works, I can say that both science and artistr y play major rolls, as well as the qualities of patience and dedication. "Roasting coffee is kind of wild in its complexity, and is a true mix of chemistr y and art," says Jen from Topo Coffee. "Basically, you are applying heat to the bean in order to pro- duce chemical reactions that alter the properties – such as taste and structure – of the bean. You end up with something that has a certain amount of water solubility and flavor. The reactions at play are the same ones responsible for changes that occur when we cook our food. What makes coffee unique is that there are so many different outcomes for the same bean, all determined by how the heat is applied during the roasting process. You have to be precise in your processes and use all of your senses along with time and temperature tracking to evaluate for certain milestones along the way. While roasting, you are manipulating a cascade of chemical processes and slight variations at any point can drastically change the final product. Variations of even 10 seconds can create a ver y noticeable difference in the cup. Where the art of the process comes into play is in the choice of what charac- teristics of a particular bean you want to showcase, and then using your knowledge of chemical reactions to manipulate them to create the final product you envision." Jim, of Upper Hudson Coffee, explained the process to me in this way: "Roasting coffee has three main phases, the first of which is the dr ying phase. Green beans are dropped into a hot roaster and are quickly brought up to temperature. The key is to preser ve a little moisture on the inside without burning the bean on the outside. The second stage involves a chemical reaction, know as Maillard, where amino-acids and sugars react together and give the beans a brown color. This leads to what is known as first crack and the beginning of the finishing phase. First crack is when the trapped water in the bean is released and the coffee pops like popcorn. This is the beginning of blonde roasts, and the caramelization of the bean. It is between this point and when the bean is finally dropped to cool that the magic takes place; add more heat and you further develop the taste of the bean and can bring about a second crack and the darker roasts. Timing is ever y- thing. Second crack sounds like Rice Crispies in milk and during this process the bean's internal structure is breaking down – the cellulose is beginning to carbonize. If allowed to con- tinue, you end up with a French or Italian roast. If you drop the beans out of the roaster and cool them earlier, you can highlight the subtle characteristics that come from the con- ditions – how, when and where – of the bean's growth. This multitude of factors contributes to taste. There is a lot that goes into a good cup of coffee." How does the roasting process work and what makes it unique? Roasted In The Adirondacks By Anne Brewer

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