LOCALadk Magazine

Spring 2019 LOCALadk Magazine 53 LOCALadk The city of Oviedo —at the start of the trail—was beauti- ful. Surrounded by breathtaking mountains in the region of Asturias, it was rich in heritage and historical sites; yet had a hip, progressive vibe. Beyond Oviedo, the pastoral coun- tr yside sounded like an orchestra of bells. Cows, sheep, and goats grazed in hillside pastures, making a chorus so pleas- ant that I couldn't stop smiling. I fell asleep each night to the animal's bells echoing in the mountain breeze. The forests were rich with mossy trees, tall ferns, and nuts carpeting the footpaths. I snacked on walnuts and hazelnuts, while abundant chestnuts covered the trails. There were endless blackberr y bushes, but by mid- October—when I was there — only a few ripe berries remained. In almost ever y yard or field, apple, pear, and fig trees, along with grape and kiwi vines, provided an abundance of food along the way. I sub- sidized my foraging with Marcona almonds, sheep cheese, pomegranates, green olives, and freshly-picked clemen- tines—their leaves and stems still vibrantly green. I drank red wine and a popular fermented cider called Cidre. Eating local in this Mediterranean countr y was simple and delicious. After a few days of hiking, the pastoral fields gave way to more remote parts of the trail. For the following week we navigated a region of mountain ranges, with one section called Los Hospitales—named after three medieval pilgrim hospitals whose stone ruins still remain. Although we were told the view from these mountain summits is breathtaking, we weren't able to see much of it because the day we tra- versed this section was filled with cold wind, rain, sleet, and fog. When we reached the other side we warmed ourselves with cups of hot tea in an overcrowded albergue filled with the smell of wet socks and boots. From there, we traversed a huge mountain lake, made possible by a dam at the far end, with rocky banks covered in towering pine forests. Layers of mountain ranges were both in front of and behind us at this point. The village of Grandas de Salime overlooked the lake and was filled with cobblestone streets, stone cottages, and interesting archi- tecture. Sheep grazed in a pasture within the village, near what appeared to be a community garden. After sleeping in a field behind the albergue, I spent the morning wandering the foggy streets of the village, tr ying to capture the feel of the place with my camera. We spent a few more days on the mountainous trail before reaching the city of Lugo. The Roman bridges leading into town, and the wall around the city that we could walk on, reminded me once again of the long histor y of this pilgrimage route. Wanting to take an even less-traveled route, Tom and I ven- tured off the Primitivo, following nameless countr y roads interspersed by tiny villages, some with no stores, cafes, or albergues. A couple of times we got lost and at one point almost gave up. That's when a kind Spanish man saw us hitch- hiking and encouraged us to keep going because the best was yet to come. True to his word, we entered the beautiful ancient monaster y of Sobrado Dos Monxes a couple of days later. Thirty kilometers before Santiago we connected to the Camino Frances, which is the most popular route. "Buen Camino" (good way) became our habitual phrase as pilgrims streamed past us. I wondered how busy it must be during the popular summer season, and was glad I was walking in late October. I finally reached Santiago as the sun was setting on my 16th day on the trail, accompanied by Tim, Tom, Annie from Vancouver, and Isabela from Switzerland. I was both happy and sad to be there. Adventurous memories and meaning- ful friendships filled my heart with joy, but I was resistant to leave this trail I had become so fond of. I had one more day before I flew back to Barcelona. Tim, Tom, and I woke early the next morning and I rented a car to drive us to Finisterre —the end of the World. If they have the time, many pilgrims continue walking from Santiago to Finis- terre, and it truly is a beautiful place to finish the pilgrimage. With rocky ocean cliffs and a lighthouse that stands out on a point of land with nothing but endless ocean beyond, Fin- isterre was my destination of choice for the end of my jour- ney. Amidst old hiking boots, rock cairns, and memorabilia left by countless other pilgrims, I placed a collection of nuts, shells, eucalyptus bark, rocks, feathers, and leaves that I'd gathered along the way as a symbol of letting go of material objects while cherishing the memories they represented. We spent the day relaxing on the sunny cliffs, reflecting on our adventure, and watching a beautiful sunset and a full moon rise over the water. That night we camped on the cliffs. The rhythmic glow of the lighthouse and the gentle sound of the waves lulled me to sleep. "The more you can be completely now, the more you realize you are always standing in the middle of a sacred circle." -Pema Chodron The Place.

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