LOCALadk Magazine

Spring 2019 LOCALadk Magazine 49 LOCALadk Although the Camino de Santiago is world-renowned, the Camino Primitivo remains a quietly traveled pilgrim- age route through pastoral countr y, lush forests, along meandering rivers, and over countless mountain ranges for over 320 km across northern Spain. It begins in the mountain town of Oviedo and ends in Santiago de Com- postela, near the western coast, passing through one small city—the ancient walled city of Lugo. The towns along the route are quintessential Spanish countr yside villages. Many seem endangered, and some feel abandoned all together, as younger generations move to more urban areas. But the richness of histor y, culture, and human experience remains palpable in the buildings, the mountains, the forested paths, and of course, the people —both transient and steadfast. The Camino Primitivo is called "The Original Way" be- cause it was first traveled by King Alfonso II of Asturias in the 9th centur y. While much of Spain was under Moor- ish control during that time, King Alfonso fought hard to keep his region independent. Once the king verified the remains of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela for himself, he returned to Asturias and established the first Camino de Santiago, moving the capital city to Oviedo so it had the protection of the surrounding mountains. He ordered castles to be built along the way, and knights were commissioned to protect the pilgrims on their jour- neys. I first learned about the Camino de Santiago after read- ing The Alchemist, by Paulo Coelho, when I was 20 years old. Twenty years later, while searching for a hiking route to explore in celebration of my 40th birthday, it resur- faced in Google Images, but the photos that appeared were of the Primitivo. I had no idea this route existed, but the pictures convinced me that this was the perfect desti- nation for my epic adventure. I left my Keene Valley home in early October with a 20 -pound daypack that I hoped contained ever ything I would need for my twenty-one day adventure. Never be- fore had I gone on such a long hike with so little. But I carried with me the faith of a pilgrim—that ever ything I didn't have would be provided for me along the way. What I couldn't have imagined at the time was just how trans- formative this pilgrimage would be. On a pilgrimage, we risk entering the unknown with the hope of being transformed. We leave the familiar world be- hind. We are also connected to a whole community of peo- ple who have taken this journey before us, those who travel alongside us, and those who will in the future. We are trans- formed in the process and are allowing ourselves to be led through the experience by the divine impulse. — Christine Valters Paintner, The Soul of a Pilgrim

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