LOCALadk Magazine

Summer 2019 LOCALadk Magazine 47 LOCALadk One of my fondest memories of family stems from the stories about our connection to the restaurant and bar busi- ness. My grandfather was an Irish councilman in Lockport, New York, who also happened to operate a speakeasy during prohibition. He sold illegally brewed beer and distilled bev- erages (mostly from Canada), and with his government con- nections was always able to stay a few steps ahead of the revenuers. Once prohibition was repealed, my grandfather became a respected Lockport restaurateur. Upon his death, the operation was taken over by my grandmother's brother and sister and named: Gould's Tavern.. I still remember vis- iting with my parents and having the honored job of walk- ing downstairs to the family owned Gould's Tavern to fetch a pitcher of beer for my dad. Back in the early part of the 20th centur y, the majority of beer producers across the countr y were local independent breweries favored by those who lived in small towns. In 1873, and up until Prohibition, there were more than four thousand breweries from coast to coast. As a result of Prohibition, and a movement toward mass production, that number had dropped to only 44 breweries in 1970. With the recent loos- ening of state regulations, and an interest in the potential for the unique flavor characteristics of craft brews, as well as consumer support for locally produced food and beverages, that number has grown to more than 7,000 small production and craft breweries from Maine to California. American craft breweries now produce more than 25 mil- lion barrels of beer each year (that's almost 800 million gal- lons) — cheers! Beer is, erroneously in many people's minds, an American beverage. But in fact, it is an ancient bit of al- chemy that existed for centuries before America was a uni- fied nation. Beer is one of the most widely consumed bever- ages worldwide. The process of brewing beer is not that difficult, but mak- ing great beer is certainly another stor y. The primar y ingre- dients remain water, hops, barley, malt, and yeast. Quality ingredients, the right proportions, time, and temperature are the factors to control; bending this into a formula is what separates one individual brewmaster from another. There are dozens of beer/ale styles, including: pilsner, la- ger, IPA (India Pale Ale), saison, bock, wheat beer, stout, por- ter, lambic, brown ale, pale ale, sour ale, Irish red, and many others. The simplest distinction stems from classifying styles as either an ale or lager/pilsner. Ales are top fermented and typically contain more hops, giving them assertive person- alities, while lagers and pilsners are bottom fermented and cold stored (almost freezing) before they are ready for con- sumption. Aside from that, much depends on the types of malt, hops, and yeast, the characteristics of water used, and various spices that give each product a distinctive character. From a few simple ingredients brewmasters are able to develop these unique beverages that through histor y have been an integral part of the culture of the people in differ- ent regions throughout the world. Fermentation transitions these ingredients as they convert into two primar y byprod- ucts: alcohol and carbon dioxide. As craft breweries began to flourish in different parts of the U.S., it became essential for operators to self-promote, and to reduce the impact of middlemen on distribution and price points. The brewpub has become that differentiating factor—a place where the "beer experience" could be de- fined and portrayed through the addition of food, ambience, fun, and ser vice. In beer-centric towns and cities it is the ex- perience that helps to build a beer culture —a culture that allows a community to become a destination for the frothy brew. In recent years, this culture has given birth to "beer nerds" who have been known to collect and trade unique beers from their travels, never opening a bottle, but rather treating them in the same fashion that a wine collector will store wine in anticipation of an escalation in value. The now famous Heady Topper IPA that is brewed in Water- bur y, Vermont is a prime example of the frenzy that has sur- rounded craft beer over the past 20 years. Heady Topper is a beer sold on allotment to specific locations throughout Ver- mont. Beer aficionados have been known to fly to Vermont specifically in search of this ver y hoppy IPA , and wait in line for hours, only to be disappointed when a store's allotment is sold out. This phenomenon helps communities create an image that drives tourism and fuels the local economy. Craft brewpubs have become the new social connection in communities—a place where locals come to laugh and clink glasses, to taste and critique, to order some interesting food, and build new friendships. With a glass of quality beer in hand, ever yone is equal. Ever y age, gender, ethnic back- ground, political affiliation, career, and education level finds common ground when enjoying a glass of beer— especially if it was brewed in-house or around the corner. Drift back 100 years, and this was the case then as well. Currently, there are over 7,000 microbreweries and brew- pubs in the United States, of which more than 400 exist in New York State —almost twenty within the Adirondack Park. A New York Farm Brewer y License is a gateway opportunity for start-up breweries, but requires operations to purchase 60% of their hops and grain from New York farmers. This helps to authenticate the "brewed in New York" standard. By Paul Sorgule

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