LOCALadk Magazine

Fall 2019 LOCALadk Magazine 55 LOCALadk availability of food outside of the summer and fall months. Adiron- dack farmers need to be extra ef- ficient and far more vigilant with regard to their subser vience to Mother Nature. This new generation of farmer in the Adirondack Park is altruis- tic, yet cognizant of the need to make a living to not just sur vive, but rather, to thrive. To this end, they have invested in understand- ing, creating, and supporting an ecosystem that takes the farm- to-table movement seriously. This ecosystem must include a variety of relationships that bring quality, and in many cases, organic vegetables to market. This ecosystem includes Commu- nity Supported Agriculture (CSA), farmer's markets, customized re- lationships with restaurant chefs, and most importantly, education. Although it is difficult to de- fine a typical day on the farm, it is interesting to see how the farmer's work patterns evolve around managing this ecosys- tem. In order to create the right balance, each farmer must communicate with chefs to determine restaurant needs and menu cycles, invest the time in relationship-building within a community to develop CSA participation and positive antic- ipation for farmer's markets, while at the same time work- ing behind the scenes to create interest in fresh crops. It is Mother Nature who can upset this normal pattern of work, because the needs of the farm never fail to surprise. A hot and dr y spell can change when items are har vested and how much watering is required; a fairly common Adirondack cold spell can push the farmer to cover delicate greens at night; and a not too uncommon deluge of spring rain might result in a re-plant when least expected. The farmer is always sub- ser vient to the weather. Look at a farmer's hands; they are a portal into his or her heart and soul. One doesn't choose to become a farmer with visions of financial wealth —he or she farms because of a love of the soil and what it can provide. These hands are rough and telling, strong and knowing, and seasoned with the stories of sun, rain, early frost, dr y spells, and the har vest. These are the hands that pick delicate lettuce and herbs, draw carrots and potatoes from the sandy Adirondack soil, har vest late summer corn, and relish the warmth of a vine-ripened heir- loom tomato. For those residents, visitors, and restaurants that connect with these caretakers of the land, the fruits of the farmer's labor are worth the effort. These crops are gifts from the earth and products of the farmer's worn hands, heart, and soul. I sat down for a chat with Ian Ater, farmer and owner of Fledg- ing Crow, a certified organic veg- etable farm in Keeseville, New York. Ian is one of those New Age farmers who came to the craft for altruistic reasons and a lasting impression that farm life left with him through a job right out of college. "I felt that this was what I wanted to do, what I needed to do." He went on to reaffirm what I have heard from others who work the land, "I can't imagine doing anything else." Ian talked of the challenges of farming that go way beyond the typical concerns for weath- er and the far-too-short Adiron- dack growing season. The life of a farmer is certainly similar, but at the same time different, to what it was 50 years ago. Today's farmer is a marketer/advocate, fundraiser, teacher/mentor, cash flow manager, and deliver y person. Combine this with keep- ing farm equipment operational, managing a team of 12 or so crewmembers, attending farmer's markets, and of course planting and har vesting, and it is easy to see how Ian, like so many other farmers, works 16-hour days with little rest. Ian greeted me with a smile and a firm handshake that showed the effects of weather and physical work. He moved from addressing the challenges of the work to words of sin- cere gratefulness for the community that has supported the farms efforts over the past 10 years. Ever y year can be touch and go, yet his optimism was evident, and whenever we re- turned to the importance of growing food, I would notice a real sparkle in his eyes. This is a man who epitomizes what it means to be a passionate craftsperson with a real connec- tion to the land as well as knowing his purpose in life. Listening to his daily schedule was dizzying—he was too busy to be tired. He reflected on how the CSA craze just a few years back was losing steam, but how other opportuni- ties arise as a result. "People spend their money differently today and food is only one of those items that they are tr y- ing to manage." Fledging Crow works with area chefs, par- ticipates in farmer's markets within the Park, and has even wholesaled in Central New York. The farm has tripled in size over the past few years, making the operation far more chal- lenging to manage. " When I first started out, there were only a handful of active farms in the Adirondacks, now there must be close to fifty. This cuts the pie smaller for ever yone in- volved, although I think the movement is great." I don't know what I would do if I couldn't farm. It's what fulfills ever ything I've ever wanted or needed. It's all I've got or see myself doing. That's my attachment to the land. It's the great- est thing on earth. - Casey Clark, farmer

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