LOCALadk Magazine
Issue link: https://localadkmagazine.uberflip.com/i/1292449
Fall 2020 LOCALadk Magazine 23 LOCALadk As the Zodiac boat we were riding in bounced across the choppy Atlantic and we felt the salty and cold sea on our fac- es, I was beginning to think that traveling to Newfoundland for my sister's 30th birthday had been a horrible idea. May- be a beach vacation would have been better, someplace with sunny skies and warm temps rather than the pea soup fog and 40 -degree weather that had been the norm thus far in Newfoundland. My wandering mind was jarred back to the present as we hit a wave and circled out of the protection of the bay towards the open ocean, and I pondered how in the hell this little rubber dingy would be able to get past the churning chop that crashed on the jagged coastline mere feet away. I cursed myself for ever thinking that this trip was a good idea, and wondered if my personal desire to come here had clouded my judgment. Thankfully, my reser vations and regret were assuaged the instant we made our final turn and headed to the landing dock at the base of the island's cliffs—and one of the most beautiful sights that we've ever seen appeared out of the mist. A massive, pale blue iceberg towered over us, having run aground and parked itself right in front of the island's small landing dock. In an instant, I knew that no matter the hardships we had endured to get here, or the challenges yet to come, this was going to be one of the most memorable trips of our lives. Newfoundland, affectionately referred to as "The Rock" by locals, is a Canadian province floating in the Atlantic off the Canadian mainland. This isolation has resulted in New- foundland becoming a world of its own, with a quirky cul- ture, friendly people, and ruggedly beautiful topography. It seems fitting, then, that it has its own time zone, a half hour ahead of Atlantic Time. If Newfoundland is The Rock, then Quirpon (pronounced kar-poon) Island is its rebellious child that broke away as soon as it could to forge its own path, attaining a higher level of wildness in the process. Situated off the Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland, Quirpon Island has a histor y that's as fascinating as its landscape is beauti- ful. Known as the "Isle of Demons" by sailors in the 16th cen- tur y, Quirpon Island was thought to be inhabited by devils and wild beasts that would torment those who dared land there. The French sailors who were among the first settlers of the area wouldn't go ashore unless they had crucifixes in their hands. While we didn't encounter any goblins or ghouls during our stay on the island, when the fog rolled in and blan- keted the landscape, it was easy to see why early explorers would have felt a dark, eerie presence on the island. One of the most intriguing aspects of the island is that it's even more deserted now than it was years ago. Today, the only establishments on the island are a lighthouse and inn-keep- er's quarters circa the 1920s. Guests to the island stay in the restored inn-keeper's quarters, where a team of the friend- liest chefs imaginable prepare surprisingly tasty and hearty meals that are ser ved family style three times a day. Teriyaki salmon, blueberr y pancakes, and toast with jams made from native Newfoundland berries were just a few of the delight-