LOCALadk Magazine

to regulate the temperature of the stove and oven. e food was delicious, with lots of variety and plenty of choices for those with special dietary needs. At the conclusion of each evening meal, we were served a delectable dessert. My favorite on-board meal was the Chicken Marsala with Asparagus served over couscous and quinoa. Meals are paired with a vintage wine, specifically selected to enhance the flavors of the meal's ingredients. No hardtack survival here, we were well-fed by a chef who surpassed all my expectations and who delighted my palate with his sophisticated sensibility and thoughtful menu. e meal that was the most fun was the lobster bake on the beach of Burnt Island. You can only get lobsters this fresh in Maine. Randy actually got a break, as Captain Barnes and the rest of his crew built the fire, boiled the water, and cooked the lobsters and ears of corn in a pot covered with a thatch of kelp. e super-fresh shellfish was divine, the corn snappy and sweet, and the beach gravel comfortable. e consensus was unanimous: we all enjoyed a superb dinner. Before we returned to the ship, the captain gave everyone marshmallows to roast. He used a hand-held waffle iron-like device to cook pezzoli (think thin pressed pancake), with which we made s'mores. e captain includes a secret ingredient in his version of this classic campfire dessert (which I swore not to reveal), but you will experience a new-found joy if you conclude your beachside BBQ with one of Captain Barnes's pezzoli s'mores. e Stephen Tabor appears large when observed resting at dock, but for a 6-foot, 6-inch guy like me, the sleeping berths were "cozy." I never expected a big personal space, so I was surprised when I found I could actually stretch out on my sleeping berth, albeit diagonally. Sleep came easy as I laid down on a thick mattress under a down comforter and wool blanket, my head cradled on a so, supportive pillow. Each berth has a sink, and each bed a built-in reading light. Having had some initial trepidation regarding this issue, in the end, I was impressed with our quarters and very pleased with the accommodations. e pristine environment of Penobscot Bay is home to many forms of wildlife. Although our glimpses of harbor porpoises were brief, we did get to see harbor seals and a great many birds, including loons, cormorants, gulls, bald eagles, and ospreys. ere was an osprey nest on Burnt Island, where we'd had our BBQ. ese magnificent birds were busy providing for a chick by diving into the ocean and emerging with fish clutched in their talons. Going ashore to explore some of the islands made for some memorable adventures. A small motorized yawl ferried eager hikers to the trailhead. Carolyn and I followed a trail on Burnt Island that led us through the tall conifers that dominate much of Maine. Our hike brought us to a broad expanse of beach. Since the tide was still rising, this was ideal for beachcombing. Carolyn has a sharp eye for interesting objects. She found large crab shells as well as the tiny molts of small crabs that had outgrown their shells. I was grateful when she alerted me to avoid stepping on a sharply spiked sea urchin husk. A piece of driwood she found had a perfectly circular hole, formed by a disintegrated knot. We also found several colorful rocks encrusted with barnacles, which clamped their shells shut when we touched them. ese little creatures adhere themselves to any surface as they await the rising tide, which delivers nutrient-enriched seawater when it washes over them. What a simple, patient life. Our second excursion was to Owl's Head Bay, where we walked up to the lighthouse. Built on a large promontory, the lighthouse designates the opening of Rockland Harbor. Since 1825, this point has helped mariners navigate safely around the craggy rocks projecting from the peninsula into the harbor channel. From the base of the lighthouse tower, the view of the bay is breathtaking. From the vantage point of Owl's Head Bay to the Rockland Breakwater, one can see a manmade granite structure extending a mile into the harbor, at the end of which is another lighthouse. Visiting these places not only gives you a chance to stretch your legs, but allows you to see the beauty of Maine's lush forests, rocky beaches, and historic landmarks. It was good to feel the earth under our feet as we explored parts of Maine accessible only by water or otherwise inextricably linked to the area's maritime economy. e life-sustaining capacity of the ocean is perhaps most evident when the lobster boats return laden with fresh crustaceans. Cormorants pop up from their underwater dives, wriggling fish in their beaks. e birds then toss the fish up into the air and gulp them down head-first. As a passenger, you have the leisure to observe these things and consider the place we occupy in this aqueous world. Traversing the bay under the power of wind seems an organic coupling with this natural place because no pollutants are being spilled into its waters. Before our last evening meal together, the captain shared with us the magic of cheese and wine. "rough the mystery of fermentation, milk becomes cheese and grapes become wine. It is magic because the exact process is malleable, and even the slightest alteration can ruin a batch or turn it into a new and delicious form that has never before been tasted." It was fascinating to listen to Captain Barnes remark on the mysteries by which cheeses and wines come about. He added, "We've scrapped our marketing budget, so we can spend that money on cheese. Such is the importance of serving you the magic food that it is." With the excellent crew and captain piloting the ship, we passengers had plenty of time for conversation. Aer the initial "Who are you, and what do you do?" introductions, I found myself relaxing on "e Beach" (the name affectionately given to the expanse of cushions located on the roof of the stern quarters), engaging with my fellow travelers in discussions of history, foreign affairs, books, family stories, and tales from other travel destinations. Unlike larger cruise ships, the Stephen Tabor allows you to relax, get to know others, and comfortably be your genuine self. e ambience enjoyed aboard the Stephen Tabor is itself a form of magic. Mixing people who mostly don't know each other in a space from which they can't escape, and having them actually enjoy one another, is the magic that Captain Barnes and his crew achieve simply with the angle of the rudder, pressure on the foresail, a passion for hosting people, and just the right pull on the jib line. I encourage all intrepid land lovers who've thought of sailing on a tall ship to consider the Stephen Tabor for a magical voyage on Penobscot Bay. www.stephentaber.com LOCALadk 31

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