LOCALadk Magazine
Issue link: https://localadkmagazine.uberflip.com/i/1443429
LOCALadk 62 David enthusiastically talks about the fall and winter seasons as being his favorites. "Winter presents an opportunity to use ingredients that we preserved at the height of their maturity [rhubarb, summer beets, blueberries, etc.] as we give them new life and incorporate fall and winter flavors and methods of cooking. Winter is that special time of the year when deep food aroma is craved, and hearty meals become a source of value." Chef David loves to work with winter squash, maple syrup, and game meats. It is quite common to see posts from the chef smiling as he shows off a brown trout or bass caught from Adirondack lakes or his highly anticipated deer during season. When not in the kitchen, he seems quite comfortable in the woods, hunting to fill his home freezer. It is only natural that his love of the outdoors would be reflected in his cooking and the menus that he is part of. "I love working with colorful, versatile squashes and flavoring foods with maple syrup rather than sugar. Game meats are always part of my menus because winter reminds me of hunting and the history of cold weather survival in the Northeast, where people relied on bison, venison, quail, and rabbit." When people visit the Adirondacks, they expect to find game offered on restaurant menus. Just as visitors to the Maine coast assume that lobster will be front and center, shrimp and crayfish in Louisiana, so, too, the expectation for the venison, trout, and rabbit common in the Adirondacks. What is not well-known is that these wild hunted animals are not allowed on restaurant menus, meaning that chefs must rely on government-inspected sources shipped in from other parts of the country. e result is actually a more consistent menu item that would be difficult to find in the wild. "We selectively pick which purveyors we source these items from. We always start with sustainability. e Point chooses certain farms and purveyors because of their quality farming practices and animal husbandry." Chef Bill Bentz is both an accomplished chef, entrepreneur, and hunter-gatherer. His exciting career took him from executive sous chef at e Point Resort to chef of Mirabeau Inn and Spa in Skaneateles, opening executive chef at the Lake Placid Conference Center, and now chef and co-owner of Top of the Park, overlooking Mirror Lake. When asked about his level of excitement for winter menu items, he stated: "I try to create a menu which is balanced and able to connect with health-conscious guests as well as those looking for those rich, soul-feeding items that winter offers. Braising and confit are some of my favorite methods." Chef Bill loves living in the Adirondacks and is inspired by game during the winter season. "Having spent most of my life hunting, I really get excited to work with my own personal harvest at home. is inspires me to work at the restaurant with quality game meat that I can get my hands on through my purveyors. I enjoy working with duck, venison, elk, and even kangaroo loin combined with fall spices, root vegetables, and potatoes." Chef Darrell is the outgoing chef and operator of Chef Darrell's Mountain Diner in Blue Mountain Lake. In its first full year of operation, this out-of-the-way throwback to those early days of the American restaurant industry when train cars were dropped in place and converted into operating restaurants serving a wide variety of dishes from breakfast through dinner. eir food was always welcoming, flavorful, ample in portion size, and very focused on value. Chef Darrell has embraced this formula in a restored silver car diner that welcomes locals, travelers, and visitors to the Adirondack Experience (formerly the Adirondack Museum). You can dust off the snow from your winter coat, kick the ice accumulation from your Sorel boots, and take in the smell of roasting meats and the intoxicating aroma of bacon. Winter is welcome in Chef Darrell's kitchen. Winter requires a different set of skills for professional chefs and cooks alike. Understanding great cooking technique, having the patience that is required of "low and slow" methods, and building a palate that can distinguish the nuances in flavor that these methods provide, takes time and commitment. ere is no shortage of talent in this regard within the Adirondack Park. It is easy to find a restaurant with a crackling fire, a view of the mountains and lakes, and a chef committed to the joy of cooking during these special months. Ask the chef about his or her last hunting trip or fly-fishing experience on the Ausable River, and relish their enthusiastic tales. Le Bank Café (Saranac Lake): https://www.lebankcafe36.com/ e Point (Saranac Lake/Tupper Lake): https://www.thepointresort.com/ Top Of e Park (Lake Placid): https://www.topohepark.bar/ Chef Darrell's Mountain Diner (Blue Mountain Lake): https://www.facebook.com/Chef DarrellsMountainDine