LOCALadk Magazine

LOCALadk 21 Welcome to West Shore BBQ I turned onto the driveway of Lake Placid's West Shore BBQ and grabbed my camera for close shots of those pitch-black steel smokers. Chef Jonathan Gra- vatt was tending the fire with his wife, Meghan. The smell of wood, smoke, and meat juices dripping on hot steel was almost overwhelming. This is real cooking, rustic and alive, raw, intense, all-encompassing ― and somewhat intimidating. There is a science to keeping the temperature, smoke, and air circulation just right; an art to knowing when to add more wood, turn the meat under the spell of smokey goodness; and a bit of excitement trying to second guess the mind of the flame and stay ahead of the chaos. Aside from the beauty of these finely engineered smokers, the Gravatts could have been using this same technique a hundred years ago. Man (and woman) versus fire: Who will win and reap the joy of deliciousness? Flavor arising from the flames It is impossible to think of barbecue without talking about the importance of fire and smoke. It's how it all began, furiously rubbing two sticks together or striking flint with an iron-rich stone to create a spark. Flames, fire-red coals, and smoke would become the catalysts for methods of cooking and preserving that are timeless. Cooks and chefs have remained fascinated by open fire and smoking ever since those early days. There is something magical about watch- ing, feeling, and smelling the presence of fire. Those golden, sometimes red and blue flames lure us into an interesting world of cooking that is both science and art. The flame from a woodfire has a mind of its own, a mind that is influenced by the type of wood used, how well that wood is aged and dried, the size chosen (kindling to full logs), the amount of oxygen the fire is fed, and whether the flames are free to move about or are controlled in a domed oven. To barbecue, the cook must maintain a constant temperature of around 250 degrees – ideal for low and slow cooking, the friend of authentic barbecue. The experience is so gratifying. The smell of fat drip- ping on burning wood or through the grates to collect in the bottom of a smoker ― especially if you use fruitwood ― is intoxicating. The heat creates streams of sweat rolling down the pitmaster's back and collect- ing on his forehead. You know you are cooking ― real cooking ― and sense you are becoming one with the process. You are part of the fire now. This is impera- tive if some level of control is to be maintained. The caramelization on the meat's exterior is incredible. It leaves a crust, or bark, so perfect that when you finally draw a sharp knife across the grain, the meat pops as if feeling a sense of relief as it releases those juices that lie under the wood-charred exterior. Enjoyment of this wonderful food is universal. It's a language of hope, trust, and agreement that brings people togeth- er. The Gravatts bring BBQ to the North Country Chef Gravatt gushed with pride over this dream job that brought him and his wife, Meghan ― a fellow food aficionado ― from the South to the sometimes frigid but always beautiful Adirondacks. "We connect with this place and the people who are now our friends and neighbors," boasts Meghan. The process of barbecue and the role of the pitmas- ter begins with wood. The Gravatts believe in using a variety, each contributing something unique. "We use hardwoods exclusively – wood from man- aged stands of trees with sustainability in mind. Our fires are fed mainly maple, ash, and cherry with a touch of birch. Oak is nice, but difficult to find in the Adirondacks," states Chef Jonathan as he stands be- side a massive stack of split cords of hardwood. Cleanliness is paramount, and thanks to a back- ground as a restaurant chef, Jonathan is obsessively meticulous at keeping his treasured smokers looking like they just came out of the crate. Gravatt became animated while describing a day in the life of a pitmaster/chef. "It takes about an hour after lighting to get the coal bed set," he said. "Most weeks, the fire starts on Wednesday, and we never lose it until Saturday evening." According to the chef, the fire dynamics change with the seasons. In summer they work with a very con- sistent burn and the temperatures hold true without using excessive amounts of wood. "The result is delicious food with a deep, smoky flavor." "It takes about an hour after lighting to get the coal bed set. Most weeks, the fire starts on Wednesday, and we never lose it until Saturday evening." - Jonathan Gravatts

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