LOCALadk Magazine

LOCALadk 37 Escobar, our US-based race director. I laugh uncom- fortably and try my best to respect the cultural norms. The King is not much older than I and is also an ath- lete. Not only has he completed the trek five times, he can often be found mountain biking or trail running around Thimphu. Never in my life did I think I'd be swapping stories about altitude sickness with a King, cementing the idea that I didn't need to complete the race to have a unique and fulfilling experience. I often think back to the three pieces of advice be- stowed upon us by the Abbot Lama in Gasa. His first piece of advice: "Be open and receptive. We are not that different." I had been worried for the Bhutanese women com- peting with me. They'd been selected for the race based on a single two day event, and many hadn't run an ultra prior. I tried to explain fueling and the impor- tance of foot care and treating hot spots early. They had never heard of "gels." Most were using gear like a running vest for the first time. They preferred to stop to eat lunch and carried tea in a metal thermos. And as it turned out, all four women finished the race while I didn't make it past day two. A reminder that just because it's different from how I do it doesn't make it any less. Not only did the Lama want us to be receptive to the kindness from villagers but I think also from each other. Even today I think about this and remind myself to be curious, not judgmental. The Lama's second piece of advice: "You are not alone as the rivers and forests are living beings with their own energy to share." While climate change melts the glaciers in the high Himalayas, Bhutan's rivers rage on. As it turns out, this is also a key element of Bhutan's economy via hydro- electric power exported to India. This literal energy generated by the rivers is necessary to keep the coun- try running. I find this contradiction fascinating. I don't think this is what the Lama was alluding to, but what I do believe is that these rivers and forests have stored energy. How you interpret it is up to you. I've learned that change is often met with resistance but can also bring growth. Lastly, his third lesson: "A journey such as this can cleanse you of your dirty karma." It seems quite hypocritical to travel around the world in a plane to acknowledge climate change. The dichotomy of travel has always been a struggle for me, ingrained in a system that I did not create but am beholden to. I believe the Lama was talking about this type of struggle in reference to karma, the negative thoughts that all humans have such as envy, hubris or shame. Maybe it's the idea that you can't fix the problem from the outside, be it the system or our- selves. Maybe it's that we are both the problem and the solution. And that search for happiness? As the Buddhist would say, if you strip away ego and the desire for hap- piness, you are left with just happiness. Above: Army personnel bring supplies up and over Karchung L a Pass at 16,920', photo credit Chris Clemens. Above: The final pass on day 2 looking toward the Pho Chu Valley and my evacuation site.

• Cover