LOCALadk Magazine

LOCALadk 27 Chapter 2: The Cascades (by Jackson Deeney) From the Summit of Mt. Baker, we descended 9,000 ft and headed straight for the cheapest motel (cour- tesy of our dear friend Cal S.). We were all relieved to take a shower outside of a river and sleep on some- thing wider than our narrow sleeping pads. This would be the first time we had slept in a bed in over two months. Feeling refreshed, we headed straight to Ma- zama via Highway 20. Washington Pass is a special place nestled in the North Cascades. It is home to many inspiring forma- tions, peaks, and classic climbing routes. Features such as the monolithic Liberty Bell formation and the imposing Wine Spires draw the attention of many climbers looking to dip their toes into the world of alpine climbing. Today, Highway 20 connects the west- ern coast to this climbing destination and the quaint town of Mazama. Before, pioneers like the legendary Fred Becky would hike 16 miles, one way, from the Twisp River. Once we arrived at Washington Pass, I was struck by lightning. It felt bewildering and intoxicating being present in the area I had spent almost a year research- ing. Armed with the research I had done prior, I felt ready to be focused and tested. Most importantly, I was prepared to learn. I fell in love with Mazama as soon as we pulled into town. The local gas station/ bakery was armed with salted baguettes and local goat cheese and cider. Mazama has a hold on me like no other. The day after we arrived, we walked into the Liberty Bell group via Blue Lake. We climbed the Becky Route on the Liberty Bell Tower and the North Face Direc- tismo on Concord Tower with little trouble. We were grateful to be among the mountain goats and climbing rock rather than "climbing" volcanoes with skis. Once back in town, we connected with EXP alum Timmy R. and Cal Seeley. The following day Cal and I decided we would climb one of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" - the southwest rib of South Early Winter Spire but with a two-pitch 5.10 variation. We raced up the spire and back down to Mazama, where we were greeted with some of the finest gas station provisions. The fire was lit and Rosey, Tim, and I got to work. We climbed the NW corner of North Early Winter Spire, Spontaneity Arete, Poster Peak, and Goat Wall via Prime Rib within the next few days. Feeling fatigued, we were uncertain if we would attempt the fabled For- bidden Peak. After a quick pep talk from Cal, we de- cided we would go for the NW face of Forbidden Peak, the most technical route on the mountain with a grade V rating, meaning that most climbers spend one night on the route. This route had it all. A mean approach from the Southwest, a chossy gully climb to gain the ridge, a rappel off the ridge to the north down to the Forbidden glacier, and then finally a climb up the NW face of Forbidden. Clockwise from left: Jackson Deeney ascending the 5.10 finger crack Variation of the route "Southwest Rib" on the South Early Winter Spire in Washington Pass. Photo credit: Ben Rosenberg Ben and Jackson striking a dual pose in the col between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower in Washington pass. Photo credit: Tim K Jackson Deeney on the summit of the South Early Winter Spire in Washington Pass: Photo credit: Ben Rosenberg

• Cover