LOCALadk Magazine

Jackson Deeney shortly after climbing the "Knife's Edge" ridge on the NW Face of Forbidden Peak. Photo credit: Ben Rosenberg LOCALadk 29 Boston Basin is taken straight out of a fairy tale, and Forbidden Peak is more imposing than the pic- tures. However, I felt confident in both myself and my partner. After a late start, we crushed the approach and started to ascend the "cat scratch gullies" toward the notch that leads to the west ridge. This is where the rappels begin down to the Forbidden Glacier and the NW face. It was at this moment I realized the dan- ger of the mountains. Not only was the environment inherently hazardous, but the popularity of the route introduced human hazard. Heavy-footed climbers rappelling down the gully were dislodging rocks and trundling them down toward us. We increased our pace and fired to the notch. Once there, we left our packs at the bivy and rappelled down to the Forbidden Glacier. While navigating the glacier, we scouted the line and fired it up. This was a huge learning moment. The glacier had changed so much from years past that it was going to be more challenging to navigate down to the toe of the ridge where the route normally starts. Cal was confident we were going to be able to gain the ridge early via the western aspect of the ridge. I was skeptical because it did not follow the route, but I quickly realized what it meant to be in the mountains. You must adapt and find new ways to move but, most importantly, have the skills to back it up. It felt incredible to pioneer and have a proper ad- venture. Once on the ridge, we climbed with speed and efficiency to the summit. After descending the West Ridge, we were back at the notch, but discovered that people had taken our bivy site. Without a choice, we had to descend the rest of the route. Nothing had gone seriously wrong, however we were approaching an epic. I was thankful to have the physical and mental fortitude to stay sharp to make it down to high camp in the Basin. We arrived at the notch at 11:30 p.m., 12 hours from the start of the approach. After rappelling the "Cat-Scratch Gullies" we made it to high camp at 2:45 am. We woke up the next morning and hiked to the car in the rain. Insult to injury, but the spirits were high after completing such an extensive climb in a single push. At our cars, we did a double-take at some fellow climbers who were heading out. I called out, "Hey Kevin!" It was none other than Kevin "MudRat" Mcken- zie. I was in awe. A fellow Adirondack climber, a legend at that, was on their adventure on the other side of the country, in the same place, and at the same time. While we were wrapping up our epic journey, he was just starting his. He shared that he was headed back east to Washington Pass to enjoy the Alpine cragging from which we had just come. It was an excellent en- counter to round out the trip. Once I was back in the Adirondacks, I felt a deeper sense of appreciation for home and my major. I had seen all of these amazing places but deep down, I knew that this place was different. The community and energy these ancient mountains and people bring are truly unmatched. It inspired me to dig deeper and strengthen my connection with the Adirondacks. I am grateful to call this place home. t

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