LOCALadk Magazine

Rock climbing is part of the DNA of the Adirondacks. On any given warm summer day, a drive along Rt. 73 between Keene Valley and Lake Placid will reveal just how big a part it really is. In the High Peaks region, there seems to be a climbing experience for just about every type of climber. From convenient roadside crags to day-long approach wilderness routes, climbers of a wide variety of abilities and interests can always find a reason to throw the gear in the car and get out there. Recently the region has been highlighted in some major climbing publications for having an abundance of "new" and "difficult" previously unclimbed routes. Participants in the sport of climbing are as varied as the experiences themselves. Local kids get introduced to the sport early, people in their twenties move to the area after they fall in love with the place on a trip during college, while others are well into adulthood when they enjoy their first climbing experience. There is no single reason why people climb. Each story is unique, and each person is different. The diversity of climbers adds to the richness of the entire high peaks community and offers and demonstrates that there really is a climbing experience for everyone in the High Peaks. One thing is certain, however: climbers all have a deep passion for the Adirondacks and serve as excellent stewards of this beautiful place. It would be impossible to introduce you to all of the Adirondack personalities that grace the faces of Poke-O-Moonshine and the iconic Chapple Pond Slab each season. There are far too many kind, quirky, talented, and heroic personalities to count. But here are a few local climbers you might encounter when you visit your favorite crag this summer. Name: Royce Van Evera Age: What? Place of Birth: Somewhere in Texas Occupation: Wilderness guide/ski coach Years climbing: 22 Do not let the grey hair peaking out from underneath his climbing helmet fool you. Royce has the energy of a teenager and the fitness of an endurance athlete. He clearly has a passion for getting hands on Adirondack rock and does so often. When he was 46, while many men his age were planning their retirement, Royce first put on a pair of rock shoes and a harness during a weekend climbing course with his son. That was over two decades ago, and he hasn't looked back. His interest in climbing was initially piqued because it posed less of a risk for injury than rugby, which was his sport at the time. At the urging of his wife, he traded his rugby boots for climbing shoes, and the rest was history. Royce says the solitude of the High Peaks region climbing spots and its unique vistas are what draw him to the area, along with the multitude of routes yet to be climbed. His favorite routes are any one of the multi-pitch climbs. He can be found at Poke-O-Moonshine any time his schedule allows. Clients who get to spend the day with Royce when he is on the job get a full dose of his energy and enthusiasm. His passion for climbing is contagious, and his drive is inspiring. Ask him about the time he forgot his rack of gear at the bottom of a multi-pitch climb in the southern Adirondacks, and you'll be able to appreciate his sense of humor, too. Name: Dustin Ulrich Age: 28 Place of Birth: Remsen, N.Y. Occupation: Guide, painter, carpenter, waiter, pool- boy, or any other possible source of incone when guiding work is slow Years climbing: 9 Dustin is an adventurer. His climbing pursuits often take him to the depths of the High Peaks wilderness and destinations well beyond, but he always finds his way back home. Dustin first started climbing indoors at a rock gym. He reports being introduced to the sport by his cousin as a way to keep him out of trouble and keep his energy focused. It wasn't until college that his rock shoes first touched the real thing, but once they did, he was hooked immediately. Dustin says he hasn't set foot in a rock gym since. For Dustin it's all about the variety of climbing the High Peaks has to offer. He marvels at the size of the wilderness area and can describe five totally different styles of climbing that are available. He loves the High Peaks region, where climbers can go and have room to breathe. He reports that even the most popular spots are not over run with people, and if you venture slightly off the beaten path, you and your rope-mate can climb all alone. As is true of most climbers, Dustin has a difficult time identifying a favorite place to climb. When pressed, he admits that Moss Cliff in the Wilmington Notch is special for him. It may be the short season, due to falcon nesting, or the super clean rock, or the view, but in all likelihood it's the memory of getting caught out a little past dark and having to cross the cold Ausable River with no headlamp to light the way. Names: The Frantz Brothers (Kai, Tate, and Trey) Ages: 11 (Kai) 9 (Tate) 6 (Trey) Place of Birth: Lake Placid, N.Y. Occupation: Student, Skier, Climber, Athlete, movie star in training Years Climbing: 23 (collectively) Summer 2014 63 LOCALadk

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