LOCALadk Magazine

36 Summer 2017 LOCALadk Magazine LOCALadk West Branch of the Oswegatchie Though I love paddling with friends, solo trips conjure up a different sense of serenity and freedom. These trips are also necessary when you are unable to find someone willing to drive over two hours to explore a little section of river few know exist. So, on a cloudy August morning, I found myself navigating alone the switchbacks of Long Pond Road outside of Croghan; it's a drive that feels as remote as you can get on a paved road in the Adirondacks. Once at the dirt parking area, I unloaded my kayak and began the short carry to the rocky shoreline along the West Branch of the Oswegatchie. The water here is stained with tannic acid. It's so dark that, fully submerged, the tip of my paddle blade disappeared from sight. New York aster and blind gentian created a purple bouquet of wildflowers along the shoreline as I paddled upstream. Within 30 minutes I reached the first section of shallow water, at which point I needed to line my kayak upstream to deeper water. It wasn't long before I reached shallow water once again and, due to continued low water levels from the dry summer, I chose to turn back for further exploration downstream. It was necessary to place my kayak back on my car and drive to the next portion of the river, as shallow rapids break up this stretch of the Oswegatchie. A short distance down the road, I reached the next put-in and climbed into my kayak once more. Soon, I'd paddled to Round Pond and Long Pond, two delightful bodies of water that, though slightly developed, epitomize the peace and tranquility of any remote Adirondack pond. The only sounds I heard on Long Pond, as I paddled by en route to Rock Pond and Trout Pond, were the laughter of children at the Oswegatchie Educational Center. Below these two ponds the river became choked with several small log jams and I chose to turn around, as I didn't have the luxury of a car at the other end. Splitting a route into three sections isn't bad, however, as it allows for a different perspective in each direction. Back at my car, I once again loaded my kayak and drove to the next put-in, just below Mud Pond. It's rare to find a small stream with interconnected ponds, and such a route offers mini-destinations along the journey. From the last put in I was able, after a short portage, to paddle upstream to Mud Pond, where I was greeted by hundreds of frogs with their heads poking above the white pond lilies and floating bur-reed. These frogs kept me company all the way to Long Pond Road Bridge, which marked another turn- around point. The day had become mostly sunny at this point, and I spent several minutes on the way back sitting still in my boat, taking in the scenery and allowing time to slip by uninterrupted. The highlight of the trip was yet to come. Passing under Long Pond Road a final time, I completed the short portage around a small cascade and then placed my kayak into the shallow riffles on the other side. Within 15 minutes I was at the wooden bridge at the top of Iowa Falls. This waterfall consists of multiple drops and is, in my opinion, one of the most underrated gems in the western Adirondacks. I sat below the westernmost cascade, beside one of the largest patches of cardinal flowers I have ever seen, and dozed off in the warmth of the afternoon sun. I wished the moment would never end. That's the beauty of living up here. Though the moments end, the locations remain, and can be visited again and again, each time offering fresh experiences and invoking new feelings. With this in mind I climbed back into my kayak, paddled back upstream, completed the final portage, loaded the kayak back onto my car, and headed home. I look forward to the next time I'm there, and hope to bring someone new to experience the tranquility of this often-overlooked section of Adirondack river. Johnathan Esper

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