LOCALadk Magazine

LOCALadk | Eat! Liquids and Solids at the Handlebar A Trendy Gastro-Pub in Lake Placid by: Terry & Julie Robards For those who love craft beers, innovative mixed drinks and creative pub cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere – Liquids and Solids at the Handlebar, is the place to be. Now approaching its third successful year in business, owners Keegan Konkoski and Tim Loomis are passionate about serving the very best farm fresh food in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Loomis, a graduate of Paul Smith's culinary program, and Konkoski, who studied math, science and anatomy at North Country Community College in Saranac Lake, wanted to offer Lake Placid something "new" in the way of drinking and dining. "Tim and I had worked together in the Lake Placid restaurant scene for 14 years," Keegan said, "and we both have a passion for farming and sustainable agriculture. We wanted to create a comfortable place, where people could get really good, fresh food and drink – just the basic things that the body needs. That is how we came up with the name Liquids and Solids." The cuisine, according to chef Loomis, is an eclectic blend of modern European and regional dishes with a seasonal twist. "Farm to Fork" ingredients are used as much as possible. All meat is New York farm raised, cheeses are from Asgaard Farm in AuSable Forks and whenever possible fresh produce is supplied by a number of local CSA farms. The restaurant appeals to foodies of all ages, especially since the menu offers regional favorites like poutine – a French Canadian dish of crisp russet fries drenched in gravy and NY cheese curd ($5) and a double burger with cheese curd, spicy pickles and special sauce on focaccia ($10). The nostalgia factor also plays a big role for diners who appreciate certain foods from their childhood, like corned beef tongue served with pastrami, latke, kraut, gruyere and horseradish cream ($14). House specialties are flavorful mixed drinks like the Chocolate Manhattan, a Cilantro Daiquiri and Honey Water which is made with Champagne, chartreuse, honey, bison vodka and hopped grapefruit 32 LOCALadk Magazine Spring 2013 bitters. The craft beer selection is the largest we've seen outside of Ireland. Six are on tap and there are 17 India Pale Ales, two American Strong Ales, nine Stouts, eight Belgian Ales and too many more to list – over 50 in all. There is a decent wine list as well, with selections from California, France, Australia, Italy and Argentina. The pours are generous. We arrive for dinner on a Tuesday night at 6:30 and the bar, about 30 feet long, is full and most of the patrons there are dining. The crowd is young, and we seem to be the only people over 50 as we take an elevated table with bar stools, for we are here to sample the menu. The selections are eclectic, even exotic, featuring items like a charcuterie of pork terrine with duck prosciutto, rillette, smoked ham and Canadian bacon ($18), fried pork liver with garlic pudding, tomatoes, broccoli rabe and basil ($11), rabbit galantine en croute with rabbit confit, poached pear, parsnip cream, onion and jam ($16). Terry opts for duck sausage with fried oysters, grits and braised greens ($18), which turns out to be surprisingly spicy. Julie goes for the chard and goat cheese ravioli with oxtail ragout and olive tapenade ($12), rich with cheese flavors wrapped in al dente pasta and topped with the ragout and garnished with piquant olive tapenade, an unusual and innovative combo that is beautifully balanced. The pinot noir, a Domaine Brunet from France ($8 the glass) is appropriately cool in temperature but lacks typical pinot noir fruit. A Ramitello dry red from Italy, 80 percent montepulciano and 20 percent aglianico from Campomarino, is spicy, rich, slightly astringent and shows much style and character, a huge contrast with the pinot noir for only a dollar more. The water glasses, which are constantly refilled, are mason jars, a rustic touch. The duck sausage with fried oysters matches the spice of the Ramitello. The oysters, normally too delicate to hold up against a robust red, have been sautéed in a spicy oil and are complimentary. So far, we are delighted with the meal. The charcuterie that we ordered as a first course comes on a plank shaped like a pig and turns out to be more than enough for two. It could easily suffice as a main course. We pair it with an order of fried brussels sprouts, which - according to our server - have a good reputation among the locals who frequent L&S.

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