LOCALadk Magazine

LOCALadk 26 the larger ranges. Finishing class, we embarked for Lone Pine, California — the gateway to the Mt. Whit- ney region of the Sierra. Three miles outside of Lone Pine, Tim's trusty steed blew a hoof, or in this case a flat tire, and we limped into town at a less than ideal time. It was at this point that I realized that no matter how dangerous outdoor activity is and how we plan for situations during an ex- pedition — rescue procedures, emergency equipment, and callouts — a simple logistical hiccup can derail the expedition. After a poor night's sleep and persistent storms, we decided to nip the tire problem in the bud. With new shoes for the car on the way, and a few days spent staring at the mountains in person, we decid- ed a scouting mission would be ideal. A record Sierra snow year paired with recent storms meant that rock climbing could be jeopardized, so with alarms set for 2 a.m. and bags packed, we went to bed. The next morning we awoke and began up the trail of Mt. Whitney's Mountaineers route. Our stomachs were rumbling but we attributed it to the 5-hour energy we consumed and thought nothing more. Tim real- ized it was more and ran down half a mile to the trailhead toilets to do the unthinkable. We were suddenly behind by an hour or so. 5,000 feet later and at Iceberg Lake — 2,000 feet under the summit — the hot California sun, Jackson's sinus infec- tion from Colorado, and imposing clouds forced us to turn away. See- ing bare rock under the summit had given us hope, however, that some rock climbing could be done, and a couple thousand feet of corn skiing definitely raised spirits. Half a mile from the trailhead, my intestines must have realized where we were and also showed me what Tim had felt, and I took off for the toilets at the base. Inspired by what we had seen, we planned for an abbreviated version of the original Whitney plan and sent back up two days later with our skis, climbing and camping equipment, and four days worth of food. Questionable weather was forecasted and we were ready to wait it out. After three days of wind, thun- derstorms, countless card games, terrible flatulences from three dudes in a tent, and a foot of new snow, we were still hopeful. Tragedy struck as Jackson's course of antibiotics for his sinus infection weighed their toll on him as he graffiti'd the rock we had been using as a bathroom location and we declared surrender. After a much more challenging ski down (try skiing with 60 lb. packs next time you're at your local mountain) we moved onto the second location of my expedition. Realizing the importance of scouting locations, we went in from the north to Mt. Agassiz (13,899') which overlooked the Palisades. A 7-mile approach to a snow slope and summit scramble felt much more like home, and we looked down upon the range, still full of snow and unknowns. Returning featured an entertaining glissade (French for "butt slide"). At camp that night, we decided with all of the unknowns, and challenges of a record snow year, we pivoted north to Yosemite. This pivot caused us to drive all the way around the range and through Sacramento because the snow in Tioga Pass was so deep. We ticked a few of the classic moderate routes and set our sights on the East But- tress of Middle Cathedral. At 11 pitches for a route that was 1,100 feet long and a difficulty rated at 5.9 with a pitch of A0 (using metal bolts drilled into the rock to aid with ascension), the climb was within our abilities. The granite of the Valley remind- ed us of the anorthicite of the Dacks, and the East Buttress was eerily reminiscent of the in-your face climbing style of Poke-O- Moonshine's main face. After some strange pitches, including me get- ting lost in a chimney rock feature and Jackson attempting to climb the A0 pitch without pulling on the bolts, the hour was getting late. We topped the climb, saw a scorpion, and opted to rappel down in the dark. A lengthy but more sure way of reaching the ground as the walk off was contrived. 2 hours and 12 rappels later, we were on the ground in the dark, tired but stoked. We had what is known in the outdoor world as an "Epic" that would go as Type II fun, which is fun in retrospect but not as fun during the activity. It is something you would do again after a beer and good food with your partners. The climb and descent took 14 hours overall, but the steak we cooked in El Capitan meadows (might have had more room in the Kia if we didn't bring a George Foreman Grill) tasted so much better for it. We left Yosemite and finished my leg of the expedition feeling tired, excited, and much more realistic in our decision making when it came to our bodies fatigue levels, weather, and route planning. Armed with this new knowledge, we headed north to Mt. Shasta, and more importantly, a stop at the Yum Buffet in Sacramento because we apparently hadn't had enough GI issues to scare us away from questionable food. Looking back at that decision, maybe we didn't learn anything. Tim K and Ben Rosenberg approaching the base of Mt. Whitney via the mountaineers route. Photo credit: Jackson Deeney

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