LOCALadk Magazine

44 Fall 2014 LOCALadk Story and Photos by Andy Johnstone Half a world away, nestled in a lowland surrounded by Himalayan peaks, lies Pokhara, Nepal. The city, which consists mostly of concrete buildings no higher than four stories, serves as an adventure gateway to the nearby mountains, rivers, and endless sky. Trekkers, whitewater enthusiasts, and para-gliders from all corners of the world wander the streets. Some don colorful, new gear. Others, with faded cotton clothes and dreadlocks, came years ago and never left. Storefronts promise guide services and "authentic" North Face goods. Once you've stepped through the doors of one, you have basically seen them all. That is, until the paved road gives way to dirt alongside the eastern shore of Phewa Lake. There, amongst the area shops and hotels, is Three Sisters Trekking Agency. It wouldn't stand out were it not for a sign promising "Female Guiding Service." Traditionally in Nepal, guiding is a man's job; the trails and peaks his domain. Three Sisters is breaking new ground and defying the long-held belief that only men can successfully guide in the mountains. After the hazy descent in a Boeing 737 into Nepal, the bus ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara was a welcome change. The Nepal that I had imagined—mountain villages, snow-capped peaks, oxygen masks— wasn't what I first saw. The city was loud and polluted. Locals wore surgical masks to filter the air thick with dust and exhaust. After the arduous, nine-hour bus ride along twists and sheer drops, my wife Bethany and I finally arrived in Pokhara. From the bus station, a driver from Three Sisters took us to the lodge. The beds were comfortable, showers were hot, and they even had Wi- Fi downstairs. Besides the wonderful amenities they provide, Three Sisters Trekking uses its profits to provide fair wages for its female guides and porters as well as for funding a school for Nepalese girls. Soon after settling in, we met Manu (pronounced "moon-uh") Gurung, our guide for the coming two weeks. Her name means "Little Flower," fitting for a soft-spoken, 5' tall woman of 27 years. Manu is no stranger to the mountains. She comes from a small village, raised in a traditional hut with a thatched roof. When she decided to guide, those close to her were supportive. But outside of the community, she encountered a different attitude, one that saw her upsetting the status quo. Despite this attitude, she continued to hike. In 2011, after training in Italy, Manu was part of the summit team that tackled the 24,688' Annapurna IV. She and several other Nepalese women were among the first native women to ever stand atop the awe-inspiring mountain . With a map spread out in front of us, Manu's finger traced our route to Annapurna Base Camp, the last establishment for climbers bound for one of several summits in the range. Annapurna I is one of the N E P A L Epic Journey

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